RULER IN INCHES HOW TO

In the Column width box, enter the new size in inches (here, 1.5 inches) and click OK.

To change the cell width, select the cells you want to resize, and then in the Ribbon go to Home > Format > Column Width.

In the Ribbon, go to View > Page Layout.

Whether you’re using pixels or inches, changing a cell’s size works the same way In it, (2) click on the box next to Ruler units and from the list, (3) choose Inches. (1) From the right-side menu, choose Advanced and then on the left, scroll to the Display section.

To change the ruler units from the default to inches, in the Ribbon go to Files and click on the Options.

One way to do that is to use the Format feature. Sometimes you’ll need to change cells’ sizes in inches – rather than pixels – to accurately match your data or template.

RULER IN INCHES HOW TO

Imagine accidentally putting 22mm seals in a 22.2mm bore master cylinder, for example.Īnd then there's the '114.3mm' (4.5') wheel bolt pattern.This tutorial demonstrates how to change cell size in pixels or inches in Excel and Google Sheets. There's probably also a vested interest in not making brake parts that are ALMOST interchangable. The outward designs may change but the tooling still exists. A lot of brake hardware is hand-me-down engineered all the way back to England, which is why even today you will see bore sizes like 22.2mm, or 50.8mm. For bolt patterns and things like that you can assume that you're mostly going to be using pretty round whole numbers. If the car was made in a place or time where they were likely using metric, then it can be useful to convert your measurements (especially if they're a somewhat oddball fraction) to metric.įor example, that measurement you just took on your Honda probably isn't 1-11/64', it's 30mm. You can do this.Īnother trick: keep in mind where/when your car was made. The whole process took us about 20 minutes with very simple tools. It bolted in place on the first try with no need to oval any holes. While there was more to do in the next steps of our bracket project, this baseplate matched the casting that it was replacing. We then drilled our holes and sanded the radiuses as scribed. The first step is to set our dividers to ⅝ inch and mark radiuses for the two outboard corners. Radiused edges make for good style–and reduce the chance of a stress riser. While the part is accurate, it should have a little style. Our quick work has yielded three clearly marked and punched locations for our drilling. We actually center-punch each hole twice–first by hand with the automatic center punch, then once again, making it more pronounced, with a hammer and traditional punch. We use both a spring-loaded automatic center punch (top) as well as a traditional punch and hammer (bottom). We just had to drill at the intersecting lines.Ĭenter punching really helps the accuracy of drilled holes.

We just stuck that third hole along one of the lines that determined one of our first two holes. This time there really wasn’t a need to determine the dimension. Now we needed to space the last hole, so we again used the divider to measure edge to edge. The intersection of the lines would determine where our first two holes would go. We also scribed a line 90 degrees from the parallels. Double-checking our measurement told us our lines were 1¾ inches apart. We set our divider to ⅝ inch and scribed lines along the edges. Some quick math told us that if we wanted to center our holes in a piece of 3-inch-wide steel, we’d need them to be ⅝ inch from the edge. We then lay the divider on a ruler to get the space between the hole centers: 1¾ inches. It’s easier to measure to the edge, and the distance is the same as long as the holes are the same diameter–in this case 10mm.

Rather than try to measure from center to center, we measure from edge to edge on the same side of the holes. We use them all the time to measure the distance between holes. STEP 2:Īn inexpensive set of dividers does the trick here. However, we didn’t find them very useful this time: As we went to transfer holes from a cast bracket to our fabricated piece, the original casting simply would not lie flat and any rocking hurt our accuracy. Our favorite tools for transferring holes from one bracket to another are aptly named transfer punches. Here’s how we used a divider to quickly locate three holes in a custom bracket. Want to save yourself a lot of time and aggravation? We have found that a common set of dividers–a simple tool that usually costs less than $15–can be a real time-saver, accurately locating holes while minimizing the need to take measurements.

A custom bracket with mis-drilled holes is pretty much worthless.

Ruler in inches